Some travel in their minds.
Some travel in their hearts.
Welcome to the third choice.
These words, inscribed on the outside of the plane, greeted us as we boarded our SAS Braathans flight from Oslo to Tromso, in the far north of Norway. Most of my journeys have been of the first two types.
This time, however, my husband, Mike, our daughter, Anna, my friend, Hazel, and I were travelling to Northern Finland to spend a week in the last wilderness area of Lapland.
Anna's husband, Pasi, met us at Tromso which is a small airport, so we could see him as he approached the arrivals door in his people-carrier. With our luggage aboard we set off for Koppangen, in the Lyngen Alps, for an overnight stay in a log cabin built on stilts out over Lyngen Fjord. We had driven on to a ferry to cross one stretch of water to Svensby, to shorten the journey.
Our accommodation was a typical Scandinavian log cabin, and it provided us with everything we could have wished for, including a sauna. Koppangen is mainly a fishing area and there were two boats moored for anyone who wanted to go fishing. In a large shed nearby, halibut, cod and catfish hung from the ceiling, open to the air as they dried.
Next morning we woke up to perfect silence and a stunning view of the surrounding water and mountains. Gradually, birds appeared - seagulls, Arctic tern, and skua flying about and landing on the boats or roofs or water.
After breakfast we set out on foot to visit a remote strip of land that Anna and Pasi have purchased on the side of a hill, overlooking the fjord, to expand their business which offers wilderness travel to individuals and companies. We scrambled across rough scrubland that was covered in birch trees and berries - lingonberries, whortleberries, cranberries, bilberries, blueberries. It was exciting plodding through the tangled undergrowth, imagining how it will be transformed.
Taking in deep breaths of pure air, we revelled in the absolute peace and silence of the wilderness. We then started the long journey to Enontekio in Finland. The scenery through the mountains was spectacular. Pasi pointed out an island that was formerly the training ground for NATO troops. What is a holiday without studying the culture and history of the places we are visiting?
The mountains and fjords gave way to forests and lakes, as we entered Finland. We stopped at a waterfall, and scrambled down over the rocks to the river below, a welcome break from sitting in the car for hours on end, and much-needed exercise for stiff legs. Soon after crossing the border, we spotted a herd of reindeer close to the road. Stopping to get some pictures, we discovered a dead deer behind the wall and just then a herdsman drove up. Frightened that he might accuse us of killing the deer, Pasi pointed it out to him, but he had already seen it. Spotting these animals was a treat and we learned to keep very still whenever we saw them, as they soon catch the scent on the breeze and bound off at speed into hiding. In the distance two stags seemed to be locking antlers. It was the start of the season for that. Overall, we actually saw more reindeer than people!
Our next stop was Kilpisjarvi, a small Alpine village near the border with northern Sweden which lies across the lake bearing the same name as the village. Here we enjoyed a meal in the nature centre. We had intended to spend a few hours climbing Saana, the mountain that is sacred to the Sami folk, but we were tired and anxious to reach Hetta, where Anna and Pasi have their Lapland home. That climb is something I want to do in the future. Several hikers, Leki poles in hands, came and went, as we ate our meal.
Ours was no package holiday; it was designed by Anna. Pasis parents would join us in Hetta. The whole weeks action turned out to be a brilliant feat of organisation and planning. We had set out from Manchester airport on Super Economy flights with SAS, booked over the internet, and every aspect was individually tailored. There were just two slight glitches. We had pre-booked parking-space at the airport for Annas car. Everything ran smoothly till we were driving on the slope from one level to another in the multi-storey car park. Suddenly, there was a horrible grating sound, as the luggage box on the car scraped against the wooden beams of the car parks roof. There followed many anxious minutes as Anna tried to steer to the least damaging points. This upset us but we decided wed try to forget about it.
Another eventuality we hadnt provided for was the fact that Norways currency is the kroner. None of us had any, and we needed to eat and drink, both in Oslo and in Tromso. By paying in sterling or in euro we lost out heavily. As we moaned about this, while waiting for Pasi in Tromso, an attractive young woman, who was sitting nearby, looked up and said, The exchange rate is giving us the equivalent in euro and in sterling. We knew then that we should have bought our kroners in Britain! Even so, prices seem high in Norway.
The young lady then carried on talking to us, and we discovered that she is a Professor of Haematology in Tromso University. I remarked that in my day professors tended to be distant, elderly men, not attractive young women like her! She said its more or less the same today! Having always been intensely interested in people, I accepted this little episode as an unexpected bonus.
We chose early September, because the mosquitoes and midges were disappearing, while the berries were still plentiful, and the spectacular autumn colours were appearing. We had noticed some snow on the high peaks in the Lyngen Alps but where we were heading for would be a mixture of sunshine and rain, and, maybe, a few first frosts.
We finally reached the house, and Pasis parents came out to greet us. Soon we were sitting down to a real Finnish meal including Karelian pie and reindeer meat.
After a tour of the house and immediate vicinity, we went for a walk in the woods that are part of the property. The town of Hetta is 2.5 km from the house, while the distance to the nearest neighbour in the opposite direction is roughly the same. The population of the whole area is no more than 2000.
Next day we visited an isolated strip of land very similar to Annas and Pasis in Norway. Pasis parents have bought it and intend to build their second home there. We trudged through marshland, sometimes sinking, ankle-deep, into wet bog water, till we eventually emerged on a hillside, leading down to the shore of a large lake. There is no road as yet into the land, and they will have to wait till the lake has frozen over for vehicles to drive across it with building materials.
Anna and Pasi estimated how long it would take us to trek there, but we were far quicker. A stiff, cold breeze blew in from the lake, as we waited for them to paddle three canoes across so that we could return by boat. Eventually, they appeared as tiny dots on the far shore, and we anxiously followed their progress across. On landing, they produced flasks of hot coffee, which we gratefully drank while huddled under the shelter of a tree on the hillside.
The red boat is rather rickety and insecure, announced Anna. I will return in it. Who will volunteer to paddle with me?
Mum's hand shot up!
Then Anna produced the life-jackets and soon we were all on the water. It was a fair distance across that large lake, and at times the wind whipped the water into rough waves, making paddling difficult and hazardous. I trusted my daughter; she is one of Britains top women paddlers. That didnt mean I wasnt scared. The look of joy on my face, captured on film, as I scrambled out of the boat on the far shore, tells it all. There were moments of sheer euphoria as we paddled in the vast silence, the only sound being the swish of the water under our paddles. Memories of school came flooding back, snippets from the Wind in the Willows and the poem Hiawatha - the whispering of the pine trees and the lapping of the water and the phrase, messing about in boats. A serene sense of peace and solitude then descended.
Back home Pasi soon had a log fire roaring up the chimney.
Who would like a sauna? offered Anna.
One hand was raised. The sauna was switched on and I donned my swimsuit, but when I realised I was alone, I discarded the swimsuit and followed the Finnish custom. As the temperature rose and I ladled water on to the hot coals, clouds of steam enveloped my body. My breath paused with the shock of the intense heat and I felt overcome and ready to faint. Then I practised deep breathing and went on ladling water, closing my eyes as the steam grew ever hotter. Anna came to the door and said she thought that was enough. It was my cue to emerge and wend my way to the shower. The subsequent sense of well-being made the experience worthwhile.
Next day we went shopping in the supermarket before visiting the souvenir shops. Although the original Lapp inhabitants have more or less integrated with the Finns, their ancient culture is preserved. We saw two women in the supermarket, dressed in colourful, traditional costume, and much of the merchandise on sale in the craft shops is local Lapp handiwork.
At the Enontekio Fell Nature Reserve and Museum we studied the history and culture of the native inhabitants. We read about the children being sent away to boarding-schools where, separated from their families, they learned to speak only Finnish, and so, during holidays, their parents and grandparents, who spoke only their native Sami tongue, could no longer communicate with them.
Coffee and gateaux in the café were a welcome treat before we set out to follow some of the forest nature trails. We took it in turns to read the map. I am no orienteer but it was a challenge to work out the route. What was this holiday if not a chance to try out new skills and face challenges usually enjoyed by younger, fitter folk? We came upon a little shelter, with a welcoming log-fire blazing in the centre and a group of tourists drinking coffee. They offered us coffee but we declined, being grateful for the opportunity to thaw out by the blazing fire and to take pictures. We then branched off on different routes and ended up on the deer walk, where lines of planks were laid over the marshy land. The only tourists we saw were at these nature reserves.
On the fourth day we went by car to the starting-point for a long walk across a ridge between two lakes. We spotted some reindeer and a red squirrel that put on a comic performance for our benefit, running up a pine tree and then hopping from branch to branch and from tree to tree. Red squirrels are extinct in Britain but I remembered them from my childhood in rural Ireland. We noticed lots of anthills and a foxhole, and we found the white feather of a grouse, all bearing witness to the hidden wild life of the forest. The trees had a black, bearded growth that provides food for the reindeer when the ground lies deep under snow. Winters winds knock it to the ground when other sources of food are covered. We noticed interesting varieties of fungi, a good source of nourishment for the reindeer. A surviving mosquito bit me in the neck.
That night a session of river kayaking was available, and, once again, there was only one taker. We set off for the river, Pasi carrying the yellow kayak and paddle while Anna took a life-jacket. It was a remote, lonely spot where we scrambled down to the river bank, while cameras clicked from the bridge above. Pushing off from the side, I was scared, but then the peace and beauty of the surroundings enveloped me. Remembering Annas warning of rapids, I reluctantly turned back after paddling well away from the others. Next time those rapids will beckon.
On our final night we walked up the woods with Pasi. He brought a rifle and a revolver with him and gave us lessons and demonstrations, before asking, Who would like to have a go?
I stepped forward and he gave me thick ear-muffs to wear. Then I raised the rifle, released the catch, took aim and fired, repeating the exercise five times. For someone who had never till then handled even a toy gun, hitting the target four out of five times wasnt bad! The revolver was different. The recoil took me by surprise.
Friday arrived and we had packed, ready to move out on the first leg of our homeward journey. First, we went off to follow the nature trail from the school through the forest. Along the route we came upon various challenges to encourage young people to enjoy the outdoors, equipment involving climbing, crawling, balancing and so on. After10 km we turned back. There was time to visit Hetta church, a beautiful edifice built on an elevation with the help of American Lutherans. What interested us most was a copy of the death mask of Martin Luther, one of three in the world. Nearby is a cemetery in natural surroundings, a part of which is a War cemetery. The graves are set among natural growth of shrubs and trees, a feature being lanterns on the graves, many of them lighting.
After lunch we started the five-hour drive to Narvik, where we were to stay overnight in a chalet. Narvik is a port opposite the Lofoten Islands, and within easy reach of the ferry that would take us next day from Harstad to Tromso.
The ferry was actually a cruise ship and we joined the passengers who were on an 18-day cruise of the fjords. Lunch was included and the lavish and delicious display of food was so tempting that we made pigs of ourselves. The scenery all around was breath-takingly lovely, from the blue waters of the fjord to the majestic mountains.
Anna and I spent two hours working on psychological profiles, based on Jungs philosophy. It was fun, comparing how others saw us with how we saw ourselves. It was a wonderful opportunity to look inwards and examine our goals and achievements. Having a quiet time to relax was a rare luxury for us. We wondered what the other passengers thought of the seven intruders in their trekking boots and jackets!
After disembarking we drove to the cabins by a river where we were to spend our last night. Then we went sight-seeing in Tromso. Our first visit was to the Arctic Cathedral, an example of ultra-modern architecture, absolutely plain and devoid of furnishings inside. Its triangular shape with huge cross dominates the city from a height.
A visit to the Polar Museum was the ultimate treat. Here we traced the history of polar exploration. Exhibitions explained the hunting and trapping of Arctic foxes, polar bears, walrus, and seals. The history of Amundsen, and Nansen and the search for the North-West Passage and the inspiration of Franklin were all illustrated. We saw the skeleton of a young hunter in a grave and a stuffed polar bear and the re-creation of a hunters hut with sound and vision. The museum is housed in an old warehouse by the waters edge.
Next morning it was time to return to the airport for our flight back to Manchester via Oslo and Copenhagen, after a unique and wonderful holiday.